Piece for Meer on the Dalmation Coast
The easily recognizable black and white-spotted Dalmatian dog breed is thought to have originated on the wondrous Dalmatian coast. I spent two weeks this spring exploring this part of the world, and I saw not one. I see more of these dappled dogs in the U.S., though no longer as the traditional American firehouse guard dog.
Dalmatia generally encompasses the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea, from Croatia in the north to Montenegro in the south, and is bounded by Bosnia and Herzegovina in the east. Its terrain hugs the Adriatic Sea, with a gorgeous mountainous background. Picturesque islands hug the coast.
The popular children’s movie, 101 Dalmatians, was a childhood favorite of many and lives on in pop culture. It is a depiction of the triumph of good over evil, featuring 101 of these adorable pups and a villain who seeks to steal their unique fur. In an area of the world that has a history of wartime and conflict, most recently in the 1990s, perhaps the dog breed chosen for the movie possessed a metaphorical aspect.
The Dalmatian name is derived from the tribe living in what later became known as Dalmatia. During the second century BC, the islands hugging the coast were populated by Greeks and the mainland by the Illyrians. The area fell under Roman rule. By 1420, the Venetians controlled virtually all of Dalmatia except for Dubrovnik.
More than 300 years ago, to save themselves from invasion by the Venetians, the Republic of Dubrovnik sold a 12-mile/20 kilometer strip of its coastline territory, to the Ottoman Empire. Dubrovnik became the first Christian power to establish treaty relations with the Ottoman Empire, which was advancing across the Balkans. The people believed that a buffer filled with the mighty Turkish Empire might save them from their enemy. The strip of land sold to the Ottomans, known as the Neum Corridor, is now part of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Until 2023, those driving from Dubrovnik had to go through the Neum Corridor to get to the more northern parts of Croatia, and vice versa. Dubrovnik is no longer cut off from the rest of Croatia, and travelers between the southern part of Croatia and the northern part no longer need to leave the country to get there, as the Peljesac Bridge now connects the two parts. Nevertheless, as late as the second half of the nineteenth century, there were many who saw Dalmatia as a part of Italy, while the “Nationals” considered the area Croatian.
Dubrovnik, in southern Croatia, is believed to be more than 1,600 years old. Dubrovnik was independent from the 10th century until Napoleon’s wars of conquest in the 1800s. The Old Town Walls of Dubrovnik provided superb defense against enemies during the Middle Ages and are part of UNESCO’s recognized World Heritage Sites. The approximately one mile walk around the Walls affords beautiful views of the Dubrovnik and the sea. High city vantage points likely gave residents advance warning of advancing enemy ships. Dubrovnik is called the “city of steps,” so visitors should mentally prepare themselves for the more than 5,000 stone steps within the city limits.
From the Walls, you can see the lovely Lokrum Island, reachable by an hourly ten-minute ferry from the Old Town dock. The UNESCO-protected island is a nature preserve, filled with botanical gardens, dazzling peacocks, olive fields, pretty beaches, hiking trails and exhibitions within the monastery complex. Fans of the internationally popular Game of Thrones television series can take photos on the iconic “iron throne” used in the HBO hit series. Dubrovnik was a primary location for the Game of Thrones show and multiple tours of sites used in the show are offered daily. It is not hard to see why Dubrovnik’s Old Town was selected for many scenes, since its classic architecture resembles a movie set. For the show’s fans, Dubrovnik is synonymous with the fictional Game of Thrones' “King's Landing.”
Split, Croatia, in central Dalmatia, is the second-largest city in the nation after its capital, Zagreb. It is believed that the Roman Emperor Diocletian chose to build his retirement palace on a lovely cove in Split to treat his rheumatism. When he retreated to his newly completed palace around 300 AD, Diocletian’s biographers wrote that he found relief from the natural sulphur spring in the residence. The remains of Diocletian Palace, a famous monument of Roman architecture and UNESCO World Heritage Site, form the core of today’s Split.
Enjoying a meal or drink at one of the cafes along the Promenade Riva in front of the palace fronting the Adriatic Sea is a common way to soak in Split’s joie de vivre. Hovering over the city’s core, Marjan Park, provides pleasant walking paths, protected swimming coves, and magnificent vista points that overlook the city, the port and beyond. Ferries and private tour companies help visitors experience the nearby islands, some of which are dotted with sleepy fishing villages, while others become quite lively in the high season. Brac, the largest of these islands, approximately an hour by boat from Split, offers pretty beaches, crystal-clear water for swimming, hiking and rock climbing. Visiting the closest island to Split is now reachable by bridge, though arriving by sea is perhaps the preferred way to visit the 4,000-year-old town of Trogir, included in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list for its Venetian architecture.
Almost 100 miles or 150 kilometers north of Split is the lovely seaside town of Zadar. Next to Dubrovnik, Zadar became one of the best-fortified cities on the Adriatic. The City Walls of Zadar are part of UNESCO’s World Heritage List as an outstanding monument of the modern maritime fortification scheme. Within the walls, the impressive ninth-century church of St. Donatus is the largest pre-Romanesque structure in Croatia. It is located next to the Roman Forum ruins. Its tower allows 360-degree views of Zadar. The nearby Cathedral of St. Anastasia, in which the remains of the saint are preserved, also is worth a visit.
Zadar’s most charming experience may be the waterfront Sea Organ, from which mournful music is produced from waves entering beneath broad steps that lead to the Adriatic Sea. The wakes of passing boats increase the dramatic sounds. If one stays for sunset, the art installation Greeting to the Sun provides a social media-worthy light show.
As the Mediterranean diet continues to be lauded as highly beneficial to one’s health, sampling the Dalmatian Coast’s cuisine is both delicious and salubrious. Zadar is reputed to have the largest number of fishing boats in Croatia, so edible gifts of the sea are plentiful. Simply cooked fresh tuna, bream, sardines, grouper, John Dory, squid, octopus, and shrimp are all good choices here. The area’s high quality olive oil makes a nice dining accompaniment, especially when warm bread is served.
To the south of Croatia lies Montenegro, which is one of the newest internationally-recognized countries in the world. Following the dissolution of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, the republics of Serbia and Montenegro together proclaimed a federation. In June of 2006, Montenegro declared its independence from Serbia.
Lord Byron called the Montenegrin coast “the most beautiful contact between earth and sea.” The small islet of Sveti Stefan, possibly Montenegro’s most photographed site, was once the playground of stars like Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor. The coastline of the Bay of Kotor provides stunning vistas, and Kotor’s walled Old Town is charming. The majestic mountains ringing part of the bay somehow appear as unreal backdrops in photographs.
In the bay lies the storied Our Lady of the Rocks, off the coast of Perast. It is an artificial island created by shipwrecks and rocks, reputedly made over centuries by local seamen who kept an ancient oath after finding an icon of the Madonna there in 1452 that cured one of their ailing brothers. Each year on July 22, the locals hold an event called Fašinada, during which the men deposit more rocks to widen the surface of the island and the women prepare a fish feast for the town. The Catholic Church of Our Lady of the Rocks is exquisite, and contains a museum filled with donated art from around the world that relates to the Madonna.
Montenegro’s economy lags behind Croatia’s, so prices remain quite favorable for visitors. Development is increasing rapidly, however, so one should consider a visit before the world takes full advantage of this less discovered gem.
There is a painting in the Monastery of St. Mary in Zaostrog, Croatia, that attracts much interest. Most come to see an 18th-century depiction of the Last Supper and behold the Dalmatian dog at the foot of the table. It is but one of the many natural and man-made sights on the Dalmatian coast that inspire wonder.
Images courtesy of Meer.com
Images courtesy of Meer.com
Maria Leonard Olsen practices law in Washington, D.C. She is an author, podcaster, journalist, TEDx speaker and mentor to women in recovery. Maria served as a political appointee in the Clinton Justice Department and on numerous boards. You can visit her website at https://www.MariaLeonardOlsen.com.